History of Ages

Bhubaneswar ,with a history of more than 2000 years, is probably the oldest city of Odisha with a known past. Beyond the academic debate, the earliest reference to Bhubaneswar comes from the Mauryan era and particularly through Ashokan inscription. Kalinga, as it was known to the ancient world, was not part of Magadh empire during Chandragupta Maurya although he tried unsuccessfully at a certain period of his reign to bring it into the fold. During the reign of his grandson Ashoka, Kalinga came into political conflict with the Mauryan empire. The result was, in 261 B.C Ashoka descended on Kalinga with his formidable war machine. On the outskirt of  Bhubaneswar on the bank of river Daya, in the shadows of Dhauli hill, both armies met. As the stories told for generations,  the water of Daya became red with the blood of  dying soldiers. As per the Ashokan inscription, it was one of the bloodiest battle faught.

Daya River from Dhauli Hill

The XIII major rock edict: Beloved-of-the-Gods, King Priyadarsi, conquered the Kalingas eight years after his coronation. One hundred and fifty thousand were deported, one hundred thousand were killed and many more died (from other causes). After the Kalingas had been conquered, Beloved-of-the-Gods came to feel a strong inclination towards the Dharma, a love for the Dharma and for instruction in Dharma. Now Beloved-of-the-Gods feels deep remorse for having conquered the Kalingas.

— Ashoka, Rock Edict No. 13

Ashoka ,Rock Edict at Dhauli Hill,
Bhubaneswar,Odisha

It is this war that changed the life and thinking of Ashoka. The human misery, death and destruction of the war brought Ashoka closer to Buddhism. It was this war that set Ashoka in the path of Dharma, to conquer the world through tolerance and non-violence than military invasion. The importance of the war can be judged by the fact that, in far away land in western Pakistan and Afghanistan the rock edicts of Ashoka speaks about his remorse for Kalinga war and his intention to preach the world his pacifist philosophy. If Ashoka is credited with creating the first pan Asian empire and an international philosophy of non-violence, then the seed of this philosophy which manifested in numerous rock edicts and pillars across the Indian subcontinent and central Asia germinated on the bank of river Daya 5 km south-west of present Bhubaneswar.

Shanti Stupa at Dhauligiri Hill

History is still unknown to the ruler of Kalinga who fought in Kalinga war or whether Kalinga was a republic as suggested by some authority. But it is certain that a proud nation stood bravely to the Mauryan hegemony and the story of Ashok's greatness can't stand its ground without the story of the battle of Daya. Bhubaneswar as a city, as the capital of the then Kalinga, as the battleground gave the world its greatest philosopher king. In Bhubaneswar,on the foothill of Dhauli, the biggest intellectual transformation of the ancient world took place.

Mauryan Elephant in Dhauli Hill

The present location of Kalinga war on the foothill of Dhauli does not contain any material remnants of the great war.But Dhauli contains testimony to Ashok's new Dhama or principles of moral rule.On the Ashwasthama Hill (part of Dhauli) has the rock edict of Ashoka .Just above it on a live stone, exists the forepart of the Mauryan elephant.This elephant is protruding from the local coarse rock.Although it is not made of polished sand stone,the craftsmanship is refined.In Buddhism, the elephant is seen as an earthly manifestation of the qualities embodied in the Buddha himself. A classic symbol of strength, patience, loyalty and wisdom, the elephant epitomises the boundless powers of the Buddha.  or may be in this case the boundless power of Ashok's newly acquired Dharma.

As a solemn testimony to the change of heart of emperor Ashok, a white pagoda(Santi Stupa) was constructed by Japan chapter of Buddhism in 1972. It is the second Shanti stupa of India after Rajgir. After Jawaharlal Nehru laid the foundation stone of Shanti Stupa at Rajgiri, Bihar, the then governor of Bihar Shri Nitya Nanda Kanungo decided to establish second Shanti stupa at Dhaulagiri in Odisha. He formed Kalinga Nippon Buddha Sangha and become chairman.The side pavilion of the Santi stupa give a panoramic view of the city and particularly of river Daya. The quite and solemn place with the view of river bank reminds the horor of the epic war and the transformation it brought on the invading mauryan ruler 2000 years back.

Sisupalgarh-the forgotten city

Not far from Dhauli hills, in the middle of urban constructions and some vacant field lies the second chapter of Bhubaneswar's history. Sisupalagarha,the capital Kharavela,the great ruler of Chedi dynasty is on the brink of being swallowed by ever increasing demand for housing in Bhubaneswar. Sisupalgarh is regarded as the most systematically organised urban centre of Indian sub continent that dates back to first century BC.It was a fortified city of one kilometre square with earthen rampart strengthen by stone and brick walls.There are eight formal brick and stone gateways ,two on each side of the rampart.There is no inscription from the site itself that qualifies the name Sisupalgarh. 

However the Hathigumpha inscription at Udayagiri and Khandagiri caves speaks about a city called Kalinganagari.It is believed by some historians that Kalinganagari is the ancient name of Sisupalgarh established by Kharavela ,who is also credited for the caves of Khandagiri and Udayagiri. Some historians suggest that Sisupalgarh may be identified with Toshali mentioned in the edicts of the Mauryan ruler Asoka at Dhauli and Jaugadh.

The site of Sisupalgarh was scientifically studied and excavated for the first time by noted Archaeologist B.B Lal for Archaeological Survey of India in 1948.A systematic survey and excavation was carried out subsequently by M.L Smith of University of California in 2001-2003 and joint excavation by R.K Mohanty and M.L Smith in 2005-09.Most of the architectural history that we know about Sisupalgarh came from these studies and excavations.According to R.K Mohanty 'Within the rampart ,Sisupalgarh has a 5 to 6.5 metres thick cultural deposit indicative of many centuries of continuous occupation.'Radiocarbon dating shows that the site of Sisupalgarh was initially occupied in the mid-first millennium BC.Around 3rd-4th century BC there was significant use of manufactured goods that reveals the mature urban settlement in Sisupalgarh. Study of a  seal in Brahmi script ,metal objects excavated from the site indicate participation of Sisupalgarh in regional trade around first century BC and first century AD.

Monumental Pillars(Photo:Rangan Datta)

The architecture of Sisupalgarh cab broadly categorised into Monumental and Domestic architecture.The architecture of Sisupalgarh reveals large scale urban planning,engineering skill,precision stone cutting,moving and placing capability and presence of densely populated urban environment.

The monumental architecture at the site consists of the encircling perimeter wall ,the eight formal gateways ,the pillar structures and reservoirs tanks in the centre of the site. R.K Mohanty explained that 'the early stages of rampart construction consisted of earth that had been dug out from the exterior ,a process that formed a surrounding moat that is still visible on the northern and western side ,on the western side this moat also joins a small tributary called Gangua nala.'The monumental pillar area consists of laterite pillars known locally as Solakumba(Sixteen pillar) however only 14 pillars exists on ground today divided into two group.

Northwest gate of Sisupalgarh(Photo:Subhashish Panigrahi)

The domestic area of the site consists of house structures of varying sizes.The larger houses are made of laterite stone blocks with verandah facing the street.Many historians agree that Sisupalgarh is one the most systematically laid out urban settlement of ancient India.According to noted Archeologist R.K Mohanty who excavated the site,the urban planning of Sisupalgarh can be closely compared to the texts of Arthasastra of Kautilya that prescribes the ideal laid out plan for fortified cities.

Sisupalgarh shares an uneasy relationship with present day Bhubaneswar. Surrounded by the capital city ,it is easily accessible to tourists and researchers and provide an unique glimpses to the rich urban settlement once it was.On the other hand the demand for housing ,the hunger to create more space has resulted in occupation and housing construction inside the walled area of Sisupalgarh,gravely endangering the historical value and heritage of this protected site.